I Love Darjeeling!

My trip to India comprised of three parts: presenting on a panel at Women's Worlds Congress 2014, visiting some RSCJ communities and learning about their lives and work, and finally realizing a long-held dream to visit Darjeeling. Why has Darjeeling been a dream for me? It began when I was seven years old and first met my mother's uncle, Jack Prendergast, a Jesuit priest. During one of his home visits I heard him speak of the Queen of the Hills and the beauty of the people. Something about him and the way he shared about his life intrigued and captured my imagination. I decided when I was seven years old that one day, I would see this place. I had hoped to visit when he was alive, but since he died suddenly in the 1970's that was not possible. Instead, I visited his burial site, the places he lived, met people who knew him and listened to their stories. Now I have an experience of my grand-uncle Jack in the place he loved and where he lived for half his life. However, the experience was also so much more.

Jack Prendergast, affectionately called Prendie by his Jesuit colleagues, was my maternal grandmother's brother. He was among the first five Canadian Jesuits to go to Darjeeling. They were invited in the 1940's by Jawaharlal Nehru, India's first Prime Minister, to come to Darjeeling as educators. This photo was taken in Montreal, Canada just prior to their departure. My grand-uncle is dressed in white on the far right.

Day 1 - Arrival in Bagdogra

The Jesuits of the Darjeeling Province warmly welcomed me into their midst, meeting me at the Bagdogra airport and arranging for my travel and accommodation in Darjeeling. I spent the first day at their Provincial House, the Jisu Prabhu Residence. Jisu is the Hindi word for male God, and Prabhu means Supreme Lord, or God.

While at Jisu Prabhu Residence, I met the Jesuit novice masters in India who happened to be gathering for a meeting.

Beside the Provincial House is the Jesuit-run Jesu Ashram, a hospital for the destitute. There are three sections: general medicine, tuberculosis, and leprosy. The HIV-Aids section recently had to close due to government funding cuts. An English translation of ashram is related to liberation and shelter.

Behind Jisu Prabhu Residence are tea gardens. Tea grows on the plains and in the hills, giving a variety of tastes.

Day 2 - Travel to Darjeeling
Bagdogra to Darjeeling is 65 kilmeters (40 miles), but is about a three-hour drive up into the hills. In those three hours, one travels from the plains of Siliguri/Bagdogra, approximately 400 feet above sea level, to the mountains of Darjeeling, 7000 feet above sea level, with Ghum being the highest point at 7500 feet. The road is narrow, windy, and full of potholes in places due to monsoon rains.

Travelling on the plains elephants are a common sight, especially at night. They have the right of way on the road! Unfortunately, I did not see one.

                 However, I did see monkeys along the way!


Along the route to Darjeeling we stopped in Kurseong at a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes, which is beside the former Jesuit theologate. The theologate building was taken over by the government for use as a centre for forestry training. However, it is not presently being used.

                                                                           

Former St. Mary's Jesuit theologate, presently belonging to the a Ministry of Forests.

Holy water at the Shrine. The respect for and sacredness of water is evident in a country where water is scarce. Although lush during monsoon season, Darjeeling is a water scarce area and depends on the rains for water throughout the year.

The Toy Train was built between 1879-1881. It is still in operation and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The track is only two feet wide and runs right up against the road on one side and the mountain on the other. In the towns, one could step onto the train from houses and shops!

There are several small villages on the way, each with their own train station for the famous Toy Train. Here is the train station in Darjeeling, last stop on the way up.

While in Darjeeling, I was warmly welcomed by the Sisters of St. Joseph of Cluny at St. Michael's Convent. As soon as I arrived, one of the sisters ran to me and draped a shawl around my neck as a symbol of welcome. After settling in, two of the sisters came with me to visit my grand-uncle's burial site, which is located just below/beside their convent.

The burial site of my grand-uncle, Fr. Jack Prendergast, SJ.

Day 3 - Darjeeling, Queen of the Hills

Below are some photos of the highlights of my time in Darjeeling.

Mount Kanchenjunga showed itself for the duration of my stay. This mountain is part of the Himalayan range and is the second highest mountain in Nepal, after Mount Everest, and the third highest mountain in the world at 8,586 m (28,169 ft). It is situated at the border of India's Sikkim province and Nepal. As such, it is the highest mountain in India.

The room at Bishop's House where my grand-uncle lived in community for most of his 30 years in Darjeeling. The original furniture is in the room, which is now used as a guest room.

Visiting carpet weavers in a women's economic empowerment project at Hayden Hall, a Jesuit sponsored work. A fair-trade gift shop on the premises sells the carpets and other items made by the women.

Meeting young, pre-school children of labourers participate in a crèche program while their parents work at Hayden Hall or in the town. Once in school, these children continue to be supported by programs at Hayden Hall.

Discovering where to buy tea in Darjeeling.

Meeting some students from St. Michael's School and hostel. These girls, along with 38 others, sang " I Love Darjeeling" to me the evening before I left. Some of them also performed the Tea Garden dance, dressed in traditional Nepalese outfits.

Day 4, 5 - Back at Jisu Prabhu in Bagdogra

My last days in India were spent with the Jesuits at Jisu Prabhu and visiting their communities in Gayaganga and Hatighisa. These parishes serve the tea garden labourers and their families. I found out that in India tea garden labourers are from among the indigenous population. Families have worked for decades in the tea gardens, unable to pursue other options because of the poverty in which they are enslaved. Today a labourer in a tea garden makes 90 - 95 rupees/day. This is less than $2 CDN. Due to recent government regulations, tea garden companies must also provide shelter, medical care, and rations. Still this is not enough for families. Out of desperation, many men turn to alcohol as a way to cope. Families live in crowded quarters with no privacy, also making intimacy nearly impossible.

St. Peter's School Higher Secondary School for boys in Gayaganga.

The hostel where boys of tea garden labourers can live. The Daughters of the Cross run a similar school and hostel in Gayaganga for girl children, as well as a hospital.

St. Peter's parish church is operates according to the needs and schedule of the tea labourers and their families. This is the parish from which was founded the present day Bagdogra Diocese.

For further information: 
The RSCJ in Torpa, the Jesuits in Bagdogra and Darjeeling, The Sisters of St. Joseph of Cluny at St. Michael's in Darjeeling, and the Institute of the Blessed Virgin Mary (IBVM) at the Mary Ward Centre in Siliguri, are among those many religious congregations who are making efforts to help change the plight of those most affected by global poverty, including the labourers in tea gardens. They are doing this through self-help groups (SHGs) for women, awareness raising about human trafficking as bonded labour, providing free education for children, including free bordering when and where helpful, and so much more. I discovered that Canadian donors contribute most of the funds needed for the work in the Jesuit Darjeeling Province.

If anyone is interested in finding out more, contacting, and collaborating with any of the groups I've mentioned, visit: http://rscjindiaprovince.org,  www.darjeelingjesuits.org, https://www.facebook.com/pages/St-Michaels-Higher-Secondary-School-Darjeeling/139102069451100, http://www.dmwsc.org.

Torpa, Jharkhand Province

Torpa - Day 1

Now I am home from my three-week adventure in India and am aware of how blessed and enriched I am by all the people and experiences. My last post was as we left Hyderabad for Torpa. We had a 6:15 a.m. flight to Delhi and then a noon flight to Ranchi. We had a nice morning pause in the Delhi airport which was very spacious and calm.

*A beautiful sculpture of the Surya Namaskar - the sun salutation.

The RSCJ and their driver, John, met us at the Ranchi airport. Torpa was a 90 minute drive or so, just past Khunti in Jharkhand Province. We stopped in Khunti to stock up on a few snacks, and were each offered a chai tea in a small bakery-tea shop, compliments of the accountant who works at the Torpa Rural Development Centre for Women. Upon arrival at the Centre in Torpa, we were shown to our rooms and then sat down to a hearty meal. We rested for the remainder of the afternoon and early evening before having supper with the community.

*The programs at Torpa Rural Development Society for Women accommodates both residential and local commuters.

*Entrance to our private accommodations.

                                          *Garden.

                                         *Hot water heating system.

*Well water supports at least 200 residents at the Centre - the RSCJ, staff, and students.

Torpa - Day 2

Learning through experience about the value of welcoming describes our second day in Torpa. The Religious of the Sacred Heart (RSCJ) and staff facilitate self-help groups (SHGs) for women in 35 villages in Jharkhand Province, which is Indigenous territory in India. We visited two villages and learnt from the women how they run their groups. In both communities we were welcomed ceremoniously with hand washing and anointing, singing, dancing, garlands draped around our necks, and refreshments. The women shared with us about how they run their SHGs, and asked us to tell them about ourselves. Although there is a lot of poverty and life is hard, it is obvious that values such as community and hospitality are practiced. It is interesting for us in a North America to learn that in India the law states that tribal land cannot be sold, as it belongs to the tribal peoples. A Belgium Jesuit was responsible for ensuring that this was entrenched into law.

In the evening, the students living at the hostel in the Centre in Torpa treated us to a presentation of the Munda tribe's cultural songs and dances. Again, we were each welcomed ceremoniously, this time we also received bindis or tilaks on our foreheads.

*In welcoming ceremonies like the ones we experienced a bindi or tilak is a sign of blessing, and garlands are signs of honour and respect.

                                                   *With two of the dancers.

* Dancing to the beat of the drum.

Torpa - Day 3 (last full day in Torpa)

At the Torpa Rural Development Centre for Women, the RSCJ and staff also run a nursery school (Balwadi).

The children are gathering for their morning assembly and exercises, which are led by two Balwadi students - one beats on the drum and the other leads the exercises.

Programs are offered to local women who want to learn trades such as tailoring and chalk making.

*A class in tailoring with their instructor.

*Drying chalk outside in the heat.

*Chalk, packed and ready for sale.

*The Torpa Lac Processing Centre where the medium for lac bangles is produced. The leading producer of lac is Jharkhand, India. Lac is harvested from secretions of lac insects and processed to create a hard resin-like material that is moulded into bangles and decorated.

The RSCJ and staff also operate New Dawn School for local children. About 1200 students from grades 2-12 attend classes. Most children are indigenous from the Munda tribe.

* An Assembly at New Dawn School.

It is a custom of the religious congregations in and around Torpa to invite each other to celebrations on their respective feast days. While I was in Torpa, the Piarist Fathers were celebrating their feast and founder  - St. Joseph Calascatnius. We attended the celebration, which included entertainment and a meal. The Piarist order of priests was a new one to me. I learned that their primary mission is to educate poor children by offering free education. They had a great spirit and I liked them right away.

*A Piarist priest shows us the nearby river.

Off to Torpa

This will be my last post, possibly until I get back home. I don't expect to have Internet access for the next week and a half. Early tomorrow a.m. our little group heads to Torpa, near Ranchi in Jharkhand province. We will visit a women's economic development centre and a school for the local children - works of the Religious of the Sacred Heart (RSCJ), Indian Province. I'll post some of our photos upon my return. For now, below are a couple that I found online:

                                The landscape in Torpa, Jharkhand, India.

This photo was taken by the RSCJ on International Women's Day in 2013. The women are participating in a rally to raise awareness about human trafficking in the region. 

Reflections on a Conference

Women's Worlds 2014 has come to an end. The last two days being dedicated to exploring the wonders of Hyderabad, the only city in India to be named after a woman. The highlight of the conference for me has been meeting wonderful women from all over the globe, and some new friends from home too. It was surprising to many of us that the conference was not more feminist research focused and that the politics of the university system and government were such big influences on the structure and content of the event. For example, the opening address was given by an Indian woman scientist who designs missiles, and not one of the many activists in the country who are standing up for women's human rights. However, some of the panel presentations and other keynote addresses were more challenging to the oppressive forces in the world. Our presentation was well attended and very well received by participants. In it we tried not only to speak to our experience and research about women's empowerment in the Canadian context of Indigenous-Settler relations, but to model with our lives the relationships of mutual recognition we spoke about.

                                         Meeting a participant from Kolkata.

Luckily, we did not meet any of these campus residents! 

Part of the natural beauty on the campus of the University of Hyderabad. 

Presenting at Women's Worlds 2014

                                       

                                          This is what we came for!

Opening of Women's Worlds 2014

                                          A red-carpet welcome!

Here we are at the University of Hyderabad.

An Indian floral welcome.

 

Shta-ta-ha women! (Meaning beyond phenomenal in Ojibwe)

Introducing the evening entertainment.